Set within an ancient building that provided shelter to the Knights Templar in 1118, the Luna Baglioni has a charm that is unique to Venetian five-star luxury. Unlike some others, the Luna has no airs and graces. It is warm and embracing and aims to make its guests feel not just welcome, but at home.
This is not to say that the hotel isn't grand; it is, extremely so, with capacious galleried entrance, marble statues, 18th century oil paintings, chandeliers, rich crimson velvets covering armoires, Noblis fabrics, delightful Florentine touches, a sort of maritime feel in the lacquered woodwork and doors and lashings of Murano glass. But it is approachable and emits a please-appreciate-me-because-that's-what-I'm-here-for geniality.
The location is prime perfect. A couple of couture shops from St Mark's Square and a short stiletto stumble from Harry's Bar; it could not be better situated. This is because it has claimed pole position for an unconscionably long time, and is said to be the oldest hotel in Venice.
Lagune gazing
We were lucky enough to stay in the Junior Suite Lagune View, with a balcony off the bedroom that looks across the rooftops of Venice and, to the side, St Mark's Basin. The stunning sitting room was compact with Italian antique furniture, Rococo gilt mirrors and fabulous gold and black silk fabric. From here, we had views of the lagoon and St Mark's Basin and, on arrival, a bottle of excellent chilled vintage prosecco. Enormous strawberries dipped in chocolate were placed on the low table next to freshly cut lemon and cream-coloured orchids.
The bedroom was mirrored on one side, with a king-size bed draped in the same gold and black silk and a beautiful writing desk next to the door leading on to the terrace. A calming, modern bathroom contrasted brightly with a white claw-and-ball cast iron bath facing the window and rooftops beyond.
The morning room service was so speedy that, before you could gown-up, the coffee had arrived. What's more, the presentation of breakfast was so immaculate that it seemed a shame to tuck-in. But we did, and with our window open to the glorious Lagune and St Mark's Basin, we discussed a trip to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum followed by lunch at Harry's Bar.
The Guggenheim is the most important museum in Italy for early to mid-20th century European and American art. It is located in Peggy's former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, on the Grand Canal and has to be one of the most inspiring venues in the world to view modern masterpieces.
Grand vistas
The two Grand Lagune Suites are phenomenal. I have to say, you would be hard pressed to find a more impressive vista from a city terrace. The rooms are decorated to grandeur, with Nobolis, Canovas, Venetian silks and deep fringes on Florentine and Parisian furniture amid incredibly indulgent oil paintings. Silver troughs with tulips and roses sit on tables, and champagne is, of course, always waiting in its place.
The bedroom is lavish, with drapes descending from a coronet above the large bed, and an enormous en-suite marble bathroom with windows looking out across the rooftops of Venice. The vast, marble terrace has a retractable awning for shade, with wooden recliners, and a table and chairs. Can you imagine staying in this suite during the Redentore Fireworks Festival in July?
Georgeous Giorgione
The Presidential Suite is also known as the Giorgione Suite, named after the famous Italian artist; Giorgione (1478-1510) who influenced the development of Venice as the focal point of painting during the Italian Renaissance. This suite is one of the most requested in Venice; it is split level and on the fifth floor it has a vast 'altana' wooden terrace stealing some of the best views. The antiques and paintings are museum-worthy and, to top it all, there are two marble bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs. The bedroom is grand but homely, and the light throughout lifts the spirit aloft.
Suite excess at the Baglioni Hotel Luna is likely to encourage a new generation of childrens' names, perhaps Luna or Laguna, or even Giorgione. And given that Chelsea, Florence and Paris are all popular names, someone should take the plunge and start the drift towards 'Venice'.
Sophie Marchant