We visited Ca' Sagredo twice; its position on the sunny-side of the Grand Canal is quite special and the 'palace' feels extremely intimate; before you know it you become deeply attached. On our second visit to the palazzo, we took our three younger sons, who all thought that the idea of a city built entirely on water seemed unimaginable.
Predictably, we were bombarded with questions relating to 'how did they build in the water'? In layman's terms, the buildings were constructed on closely-spaced woodpiles, which were transported underwater. In the absence of oxygen, wood does not decay – it petrifies.
This wood was then penetrated deep down into the existing layers of clay and sand. Many of these 'piles' are still intact after centuries underwater and it is the brick or stone of the buildings that sit above the water that are threatened by rising levels. One of the kids later suggested that England could become the next Venice! Perhaps they didn't quite understand...
Ca'Sagredo is a classical 17th century blushed-pink Venetian palace on the Grand Canal across the way from the Rialto Market, a short stroll from the Rialto Bridge and a few steps from Ca'd'Oro, or 'House of Gold', one of the finest examples of the imaginative Gothic style. That, in itself, is priceless. It is, unquestionably, a jewel within Venice's historical crown, glowing with ageless allure. This, in part, is due to its extraordinary cultural heritage from the 17th and 18th century with great works of art from Giambattista Tiepolo, Sebastiano Ricci, Pietro Longhi, and others, lavishly displayed on walls and ceilings in grand communal spaces and in certain suites and rooms.
Ticking the boxes
Moreover, Venice 'as you want it', is constantly admired from the statuesque windows of the Grand Canal; the scenic 'highway' that snakes its way through the city and the only one in the world that you would wish to face.
The palace's interior structures have been restored with breathtaking authenticity: sweeping staircases, fireplaces, windows, marble floors along with many pieces of wonderful furnishings from those decorative centuries. This was a family home, belonging to the aesthetical family Sagredo, and the way in which it has passed from family home to 'our' good fortune feels remarkably seamless.
Ca'Sagredo can tick the boxes of Venetian prerequisites for those wishing to enjoy a stay that involves a true connection with the 'spirit' of Venice as well as natural charm, appropriate style and genuine beauty; ingredients that one would imagine to emanate from Italy's 'La Serenissima' (the most serene). The hotel is delightfully uncluttered in order not to mask the inherited assets, and what they have added contemporaneously is not only sympathetic but stylish too.
Celestial sleep
The boys are obsessed with cricket and, if not that, anything that moves on a screen. Sadly, the first thing they ran to after we opened the glorious double doors to their vast inter-connecting suite was the television. What channels do they have in Venice?
With a sinking heart I flung open the shutters of their princely room – which took some time, as it is larger than many homes – revealing a vista that could mesmerise the most corrupted of millennium babes. The only sport on Eurosport was show jumping, which they watched in the evenings, while we dined a deux on the candle-lit terrace beneath them, a few inches above the water.
We had the pleasure of that coveted 'upgrade' to the Sebastiano Ricci Presidential Suite: 110 square metres of boudoir heaven with castle-style double doors opening onto a corridor which led into the children's room with double aspect views onto the canal from our magnificent windows, complete with their original door-sized shutters for silent slumber, and small balconies guarded by stone lion gargoyles. No wonder Scooby Doo was forgotten.
Palatial pleasures
To describe our 'boudoir' without hyperbole is a tricky task when such rich, palatial and museum-esque pleasures are yours for a few days. If history and allegorical art does not appeal, then this is not the room for you.
Our super-sized bed was raised on a plinth due to the slight incline of an aged marble floor. This enormous and blissfully comfortable seven-footer appeared small within the four walls and sat dreamily beneath one of the most angelic ceiling cameos. Painted by Sebastiano Ricci in the early 18th century, it occupies an oval shape taking up more than a third of the ceiling. Ricci was an important Viennese Rococo artist who went to Venice as a young man where he received tutelage from Sebastiano Mazzoni and Federico Cervelli and soon received commissions from the rich and serious.
This wonderfully scenic 'opening of heaven' allegory, with chubby cherubs, tangible fluffy white cumulous, powder blue sky and iconic figures, became the focal point of the suite. Having stared up at it for four mornings and nights I never once tired of it; I simply wish I had one of these at home.
The furniture is grand without seeming at all ostentatious; it is honest to the period and in keeping with the opulent style of the room. Gilt surrounds – yes; commissioned bespoke golden-silk fabrics – yes; marble – yes; Large Rococo mirrors – yes; 'period' Murano lights – yes; and those glorious windows... YES! From our suite, the view is side-on to a picturesque and quiet square and faces up the Grand Canal towards the Rialto Bridge. The bathrooms were suitably stamped in 'palazzo'.
All about the acqua
Some of our most special moments were dining on the terrace of the Restaurant L'Alcove. Nothing is too much for the staff here; the chef is refreshingly adventurous with flavour and always willing to accommodate the eclectic nuances of the younger generation. For many, Venice is about the water, especially this bustling aorta, which never ceases to entertain and amuse its onlookers.
The hotel enjoys the boisterous jollies from the gondola park that sits outside, as well as the enormous convenience of one of the few 'almost' free gondola taxis that ferry the punters back and forth to the Rialto Market. The light in Venice is quite incandescent and the reflected light by day and night is truly magical from here. During one lunch, on the terrace at Ca'Sagredo, the sky went from mid-day-azure to cotton wool to angry slate and back to azure; with each light change, the setting took on an hypnotic glow. It is blissfully transporting here.
We visited the list of 'must-sees', enjoying many even more than previously, but the greatest pleasure of all was the delight it gave the children. They were fascinated, intrigued, stupefied, educated and adored the food and theatrical street entertainment. We also spent half a day on the Lido, a kind of Mesopotamia for Venetians. Only 30 minutes by snazzy speedboat, this is great fun and feels weirdly different from Venice.
The raked line of beach felt like a 50s throwback: multi-coloured bathing cabins, striped umbrellas, ice cream vendors and bathers with swimming caps. It was also extremely noiseless. Streets here are lined with grand villas and aged mottled beech trees, and there are a couple of recommended cafés in which to enjoy some sea-to-pan fare. We lunched under the dappled shade of crimson bougainvillea, at Trattoria Favorita, amongst locals and little watchful lizards.
Ca'Sagredo welcomes families and even though it could classify itself more as a museum for cultural couples, it embraces both; it was a home after all, and the whole management ethos is about warmth and making sure you pursue your happiness. As a hotel, this peachy palazzo will capture both the hearts and minds of those who want to seize the essence of La Serenissima: the heart of Italy's serenity.

Sophie Marchant