I have always felt that London and Paris were twinned, with London the male twin, practical and determined, and Paris the female, beautiful and capricious. I need both and for all its occasional ‘challenges’ I am a huge fan of Eurostar, as it has brought the twins closer together than ever before. I also love taking the train from the centre of the one to the heart of the other. The decision is therefore not whether or not to go to Paris, but where to stay when you get there.
Paris is home to some of the most elegant and sophisticated hotels in the world and so it is no mean feat for a relative newcomer to join the Parisian élite. But that is exactly what Michel Reybier has achieved with La Réserve, Paris.
La Réserve Ramatuelle, just outside Saint-Tropez, has long been a favourite of Luxury Explorer. Its elevated location on Cap Camarat, the exquisite style and attention to detail show all the markings of an exceptional hotelier and so it was inevitable that a Parisian address would follow. Finding the right location is clearly an essential ingredient in Michel Reybier’s hotel recipe book, and he managed to do so in Paris with spectacular success.
THE FINEST LOCATION OF ALL
The location of La Réserve, Paris could not be better and, it immediately trumps its illustrious peers. Set back from the Champs-Elysées, with a small park between, opposite Le Grand Palais and roughly equidistant between Le Place de la Concorde and L’Arc de Triomphe. La Réserve is a large and elegantly proportioned 19th century mansion with a distinctive deep red entrance. I visited just before Christmas and the pair of giant toy soldiers – now a Parisian icon - standing guard either side of the womb-like portal, added an element of fun that tickles the spirit. This time it was I staying and not some lucky person I’d spied on Instagram.
The decoration of the hotel is Belle Époque meets Louis XV, with rich deep colours, particularly burgundy, dark reds and mauves, which sit together beautifully, along with as much gilt as is possible on ceilings and windows. Most of the furniture is Louis XV in style and there is no immediately discernible hotel reception. Instead you are warmly greeted and offered a glass of Champagne and invited to sit on the sofa in a sumptuous drawing room as the paper work is completed.
5-STAR LUXURY SUITES
All the suites are individually decorated, but in the same overall palette and style as the grand reception rooms, creating a formidable sense of luxury and indulgence. This impression is enriched by a beautiful bouquet of flowers and a bottle of Michel Reybier’s own label Champagne on ice (which is complimentary with any Luxury Explorer booking), as well as a private bar that has complimentary decanters of Cognac, Whisky and Gin and a range of the finest nibbles. The message is clear. You are here to be pampered and to enjoy the very best that Paris, and the world, have to offer.
The rooms are spacious for central Paris. I stayed in a junior suite that had a separate sitting room, dressing room, a guest loo and a balcony, from which I could see the Eiffel Tower. The bathrooms are marble throughout, with every luxury you’d expect, but with an extra touch. La Réserve has its own bewitching aroma, or perhaps that should be scent, which permeates the entire hotel. It is present in the candles that burn throughout the hotel. The fragrance imbues the soap and shampoo and the complementary bottle of cologne in each bathroom. I loved this scent, and the slightest hint of it transports me straight back to the two magical nights I spent here. Certainly one of the most subtle and alluring pieces of marketing I have ever come across!
It is important to say that although the suites give the impression of a nineteenth century country mansion, they are filled with hi-tech functionality, from the fully automated loos, through the mirror TVs, to a state of the art lighting system. Contemporary art and photography works perfectly within the overall aesthetic. The in-suite bar comes complete with decanted spirits and the finest gourmet snacks I've ever experienced anywehere in the world.
Dragging myself from the bedroom, I headed for the reception rooms, and although I was expecting something pretty special I was still blown away by them. The main reception room, which looks onto an atrium that allows for outside seating in the summer, serves as a restaurant overflow as well as the main room for breakfast, coffee and high tea. It is cleverly designed with banquettes to offer numerous intimate spaces for a tête-à-tête at any time of day. There is a dark and very sexy cocktail bar with a Cognac collection to impress and a stunning library with a grand piano that oozes opulence and sophistication. There is also a fumoir, with a well-stocked humidor with it’s own little courtyard for those who choose to smoke à l’extérieur.
RESTAURANT GABRIEL
Then, of course there is the main restaurant, called Gabriel, which has two Michelin Stars under head chef Jérôme Banctel. This is a restaurant of extreme elegance, dressed in gold and black, that is serving some of the finest food to be found anywhere in Europe, let alone Paris. It is the definition of modern hâute cuisine that dares to mix ingredients and flavours from all over the world to create taste sensations that are both unique and sublime. Michel Reybier is also owner of Château Cos d’Estournel, so the owner’s wines feature on an impeccable wine list.
OUT AND ABOUT
Of course, within in a few hundred metres of the hotel are all the wonders of the 8th arrondissement, with the best shopping in Paris and a vast range of bars and restaurants to suit every wallet. But La Réserve does a wonderful job of subtlety persuading you not to bother. One further temptation is the Spa with its 16m pool that is known to be one of the best in Paris. I had the good fortune of visiting the Spa when no-one else was there. The assistant kindly drew the curtains on the open side of the pool, leaving me to feel like a Roman Empress on her day off. The treatment and changing rooms are beautifully appointed and all carry that enchanting aroma of La Réserve. The service throughout is blissfully subtle; it’s ever-present yet wonderfully discreet, though I will say, there is closeness akin to a family closeness throughout the staff.
As I started to pack to leave I was left with one overriding thought: Does it get any better than this?
Sophie Marchant