Where the Plaza Athénée is 'geranium rouge', Le Meurice is fresh 'menthe verdissant'. It stands with spectacular grandeur on the Rue de Rivoli looking across the Jardin des Tuileries. The green theme is omnipresent here; you have tangible sensations of the Tuileries and the central atrium, The Jardin d'Hiver, is like a glorious grand greenhouse, where high tea and cocktails are served to very Parisian Parisiennes and discerning luxe-trotters.
The Tuileries have been the hunting grounds of kings, much like London's Hyde Park, and from our suite, we watched modern day life – joggers, walkers, children – among the verdant green of the lime and carefully polarded chestnut trees. I have several friends lucky enough to stay here on business and it is the only hotel in their working world where they really look forward to returning. And it's the only hotel that their partners are desperate to gatecrash. It has that decidedly worn-out cliché 'je ne sais quoi' about it, which is both endearing and charming.
What I really found rather special about Le Meurice is that it is so relaxing. This is a classic Parisian Palace with one of the best addresses in town and it has a suite with a 360-degree view of Paris, a restaurant decorated and furnished in the image of Versailles: massive crystal chandeliers and gilt and marble surrounds and two, almost three, Michelin stars. There is also a ballroom and Salon Pompadour, for those special occasions; très, très magnificant. Despite the grandeur, it's still surprisingly chilled here.
Best of France
Le Meurice was patronised by the British during the 19th Century and, for a while, it was nicknamed 'City of London'. All the staff spoke fluent English (sadly, this set a precedent - with little incentive to up our game, we Brits are still appalling with French). The English wanted the Best of British in Paris but, actually, what they got was the Best of France; suitably impressed, we have always returned for more. Kings and queens from around the world also picked Le Meurice and, to this day, it remains the choice of the celebrity royals.
What also makes this hotel particularly special are the surrounding streets of the Sainte-Honoré neighbourhood: Place Vendôme with the Rue de la Paix at one end and the Rue Sainte-Honoré at the other; the stunning Tuileries Garden, one of Paris' most exceptional parks; the Ministry of Culture, a dramatic architectural icon; the Rontaine Paul Bury reflecting the Palais Royal in the turning spheres; and then there's Musée du Louvre. All this and more are a few minutes' walk away.
The shopping here is something else. There are so many incredible one-off boutiques like Jacqueline Peres and Michel Perry and, of course, the much talked-about Colettes (fashion and art gallery extraordinaire). So are the grand marque jewellers and classic perfumeries including the great Guerlain label, that was founded on the ground floor of the Meurice. It's a fashion frenzy ici; but when you cross the road you can wander or recline in the magical, manicured Tuileries, away from the bustling boulevard, while admiring your new bracelet or time-piece knowing that your suite delight awaits your return.
The Suite Treats
We stayed in a beautifully-proportioned prestige one-bedroom suite overlooking the Tuileries. A row of French windows opened up on to a narrow terrace and, because we were on the third floor, we had the most staggering views of the gardens opposite, Musée du Louvre and beyond. Again, we could see a diminishing Eiffel Tower to the right, and the impressive Hôtel des Invalides with its glowing golden dome and spire.
We had a fabulous dinner in our room; Le Meurice is renowned for its 24-hour room service offering guests everything from boiled eggs to caviar. It is quite spectacular in presentation and excellent in quality. If you are here during the week, try Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse, which achieved the pinnacle of gastronomy: three Michelin stars.
If that's not enough, Cèdric Grolet is Le Meurice's celebrated pastry chef who will amaze you with his reinterpretations of classic French pàtisseries, from simple pleasures to creative concoctions.
Delightful disbelief
You just never expect this sort of suite anywhere, let alone in Paris. The Marco Polo Suite sits atop the hotel with one long, long room surrounded by glossed wood with swathes of pale coffee-coloured silk curtains to divide the seating, dining and sleeping areas. It's magically maritime, and the furniture is both elegant and subtly upholstered in pale coffee and cream hues, resting on perfectly-polished wooden floorboards. The bathroom at the end is princess-perfect with a wooden stand-alone bath, marble floors and velux windows to the galaxy.
With so many wonderful suites to choose from at Le Meurice, we have to choose, for total suite excess, the incredible Belle Etoile Suite. On the seventh floor this spectacular suite is spaced out over 210sqm - the size of many homes. Its terrace garden is 300 sqm! The outdoor space provides a 360-degree view over Paris with famous landmarks such as the Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay and Sacré-Coeur all in your sights as you swivel in disbelief. How deeply could you impress your friends over a private dinner party on this terrace?
Architecturally, the suite echoes the Parisian landmarks within its telescopic sights, a style popular in the 19th Century using steel and glass with zinc roofing that weathers to green. So appropriate for Le Meurice! The furniture inside is complemented in period Charles X furniture, with exceptional wood variations to emphasise the play on light.
Aside from this, the sleeping and bathroom arrangements are sublime: a marble bath with views of Paris, jacuzzis, two bedrooms with private entrances, and the view from the master bedroom bed reveals the Opéra Garnier and Sacré-Coeur. Lie still my beating heart...
Sophie Marchant