We do have a penchant for hotels run by their owners. Not only do they tend to offer an individual sense of place, they tend to reflect the owner’s often eccentric or eclectic personality, their passion for detail and genuinely friendly service. For us the idea of “le chef mange ici” retains importance in a world that is ever more franchised. (Postscript: In March 2023, Le Grand Hotel Cannes re-opened as Mondrian Cannes, an Accor brand, proving the increasing rarity of owner-managed grand hotels.)
Boulevard de la Croisette in Cannes is a crazy, crazy place, particularly in high season. Shops, glitz and supercars are on show. Lamborghini’s are two a penny. Boys’ toys are flown-in in giant containers, to disgorge their contents onto this famous boulevard, for cruising purposes only. We saw one dispense an oversized carbon-fibre Mercedes 4x4, followed by a Rolls Royce Phantom drophead and a Bugatti Chiron: a set of wheels for the owner’s every mood.
Most of the grand hotels on La Croisette are now part of big chains: the Martinez (Hyatt), The Carlton (Intercontinental), Le Majestic (Barriere), and the problem with this is that some of their cookie-cutter formulas reveal themselves in unfortunate ways, despite the hefty prices. Think plastic bar tables and sealed winelists.
In contrast, the Grand Hotel Cannes is still run by its 76 year-old owner, Jacqueline Veyrac. Like the magical Le Negresco in Nice, a grand dame therefore runs the show. Unlike the Negresco, Le Grand is a modernist block built in the sixties, set back from La Croisette behind its own gardens. This prime position offers several advantages.
Suite Jacqueline
Let’s be honest, the brutalist façade isn’t to everyone’s taste, but the sea views over La Croisette are spectacular, especially if you are as lucky as me to stay in either an 11th floor sea view suite (last winter) and the simply gorgeous Jaqueline Suite (this August), which extends from sea-view balcony back through to a city/mountain view sitting room. I forgot to ask whether this was named after the owner or the most famous Jacqueline of them all (there is an artwork of her in the entrance hall), but this suite is a real treat.
All the suites and even the more humble rooms are stunning. Contemporary lines and retro furniture suggest a sixties vibe in contrast with the bling on display outside. It feels understated in this context, but with a sexy glamour all of its own.
The views from the higher floor balconies over the garden, La Croisette and the beach to the Bay of Cannes beyond are panoramic. Being set back from La Croisette, the inevitable street noise is subdued, while the views are mesmerising, especially as dusk falls. You find yourelf questioning whether you really want to go out at all, especially when there’s a bottle of Ruinart Blanc de Blanc chilling on the balcony.
Beds are huge, comfortable and beautifully dressed, bathrooms marbled and mosaic tiled to perfection. The Jacqueline Suite has two.
Dipping in and out of Cannes craziness and then retiring to the minimalist Le Grand provides a refreshing contrast that almost ‘cleanses you’ of the worst excesses on view below, amusing as they are.
Top notch nosh
The Le Cercle bar has a real buzz about it, especially during festivals, with a groovy vibe spilling out into the garden terrace. Within, it’s all comfortable retro red chairs and bar stools, often with a pianist to accompany the excellent Bellinis.
We dined in Park 45, the Michelin-starred restaurant on the ground floor, selecting a table on the garden terrace. This restaurant is really good. Sébastien Broda’s favours precise cooking with intense flavours, defined textures, based on local ingredients earnt the restaurant's first star. In Feburary 2018, Christophe Poard has taken over the kitchen, promising passion and generousity in his dishes, 'taking something good and making it exceptional'. There is a fine and reasonaby priced wine list; where else in this city could you find a bottle of Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc 2010 for €72? It went beautifully with the pretty-as-a-picture rouget with citrus. Every dish on the sea-themed menu we chose was consistently excellent, while the staff were welcoming, informed and highly efficient. Pastry chef Pascal Picasse also wows with excellent desserts.
A la plage
The next day, after a spot of shopping, we went to the beach. Le Grand’s own private beach, bar and restaurant are directly in front of the hotel. Make sure to reserve your matelas and a table for lunch in advance. The food here, once again, was outstanding, especially the sushi and the steaks, while the wine list also offered high quality and good value.
If you ever have to stay in Cannes for business, as many of us do for conferences, festivals and events, or choose to stop-over for pleasure, then do book a stay at Le Grand and make sure it’s a sea view room or suite if they are available. This is a welcoming, stylish and perfectly positioned grand dame that really does stand out from the Cannes crowd.
Peter Matthews