If you have never ascended the grand 19th century sweeping staircase to spend the night in a suite at Claridge's, then make it one of your top luxe hotel objectives. It is here that you will connect with the quintessentially patrician side of British culture, viz the 'refinement of mind, tastes and manners'.
Upon entering this opulent establishment you should first pause at the masterfully executed portrait of Mrs Claridge, take note of the polished steel statue of a deer, commissioned by Oswald Milne in 1929, and then turn your head to the remarkable, wide staircase and imagine Fred Astaire descending in white tie and tails with Ginger Rogers in a white palliated chiffon gown. Then, hone-in on the acres of black and white marble squares beneath your feet and allow their waltz to unfold in your mind's eye.
Next, glide over to the cushioned seating area of the foyer and take note of the outrageous Dale Chihuly's silver and white light sculpture that seems almost alive in its snake-like detail. This is Claridge's, the 'Palace of Mayfair', a landmark hotel that has maintained this glamorous appeal with swinging results, combining the best of the original with the best ever since.
Prime position
You really are in the heart of Mayfair here and, although you could flag down a black cab every minute, you don't need to for some time. Bond Street is only a few moments away, so too is Berkeley Square, Park Lane, Piccadilly and Oxford Street. For many years the prime location of this hotel has drawn the eccentric elite including the likes of Emily Dutton, musician, artist and Red Cross worker. Strikingly good looking and with a penchant for fine fashion, she chose Claridge's as her London abode while touring Europe and continued to do so thereafter.
Emily seldom retired before 3.30am, sipping martinis in the bar surrounded by admiring royals and the high society and, for her in-vogue physique, shopped daily on Bond Street. Little has changed except the names of the beautiful clients. It would not be strange to see Laura Bailey, model and muse, ascending the stairs, or Lulu Guiness, handbag designer, who recently stated that Claridge's was her favourite hotel because she "always feels a thrill" when she enters the glamorous lobby into "a wonderful world of sophistication and wonderful service".
Stylish updates
Claridge's is set on preserving its unique character and has, therefore, commissioned some of the world's leading interior designers to blend its grandeur with the 21st century, demonstrating uncompromising attention to detail to astonishing effect. The old has merged into the new imperceptibly and the result maintains the essence of this truly English hotel.
Art Deco suites are shamelessly accurate and comfortable, so too are the more traditional ones, like the one we stayed in, designed and decorated by David Linley, the Queen's nephew and leading furniture and interior designer. The effect is both modern and classical, a result that will last for many generations but still in tune with the decade that so adored this grand establishment; the sultry, swinging mega-stylish trend setting 20s.
Gone is the dated, garish carpet of the 80s and, in it its place, smooth caramel with geometric lines framing the edges and vast bed surrounds. It works, and the change for sore eyes is refreshing. The bathrooms are solid, bold and generous with timeless appeal and chunky fittings. The weighty white towels and gowns and thickly cushioned slippers are all indicative of the attention that is given to ensuring quality that embraces discreet comfort. These are slippers worth packing.
My favourite rendezvous here has to be the bar, The Fumoir. It has the nostalgic decadent sense of occasion born out of the stylish 20s. Marlene Dietrich's portrait in black and white, her beauty coyly hiding behind black veil and liquid smoke, hangs above the groovy bar. Meanwhile, a barman makes perhaps one of the most incredible cocktails I have ever enjoyed: a Claridge's Special with limes and fresh dates, not too sweet and simply divine. Reclining in maroon velvet, surrounded by aubergine-coloured leather walls, icons from the decade of decadence and soft candlelight, is the perfect spot to imbibe before a memorable meal.
Fabulous Fera (now replaced by Davies & Brook)
Walking into Fera is nothing short of theatrical. A spotlight beaming down onto the Fera logo surrounded by ruby red velvet curtains at the entrance is a total contrast to the relaxed, inviting, almost brasserie-styled dining room beyond this staged approach.
Tables are bare and organic, no fancy trimmings of starched tablecloths or lines of silverware either side of fine chinaware; instead it’s earthy and, well, not quite feral as the name might imply. There are certainly no cave dwelling diners here but the mood is more relaxed than before, and the vibe is cosmopolitan and current. This is the dawning of the age of democratic dining which feels refreshingly less elitist, but is sadly no less pricey. However, it is quite definately a notch above its predecessor, in both design and menu.
The head chef, Simon Rogan, who also runs the two Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cumbria, has redefined the fine cuisine experience into something far more engaging and enjoyable, but certainly without any compromise on gastronomy. The food here is outrageously good.
We had the tasting menu accompanied with wines chosen by the sommelier to match each plate. The styling of the ingredients may look casual but they are precisely orchestrated and exquisitely flavoured. There are around 12 different plates on the tasting menu but they are surprisingly light considering all the flavor and texture that is packed into them.
The swede dumplings filled with Isle of Mull cheese and Wiltshire truffle melted into a chorus of punchy piquancy. The native lobster with kale leaves in lobster cream with crispy pork was something I could have eaten at least three more times, that night. Each course left you wanting for more, followed swiftly by renewed anticipation for the next, and not one mouthful disappointed. The wines were expertly paired with the surf and turf courses; the most notable were the Côtes du Jura Chardonnay ‘La Reine’ and the Châteauneuf du Pape, but they were all fabulous.
Room for more
The sweet courses were heaven sent while the roasted baby fig and gingerbread topped with fig leaf yogurt has left me hooked. By the end of our gastronomic journey we genuinely felt that this was one of the most exceptional and technically brilliant dining experiences we have had in London. He doesn’t want to shock your palate, he wants to seduce it, and with such an extraordinary explosion of flavours, using many ingredients from his own farm in Cumbria. Though a flavour may taste familiar, its interpretation is genius.
This is Claridge's through and through: classic, fresh and timeless in its sense of traditional British appeal. It was known to all in 'the know' as the Palace of Mayfair in the first half of the last century. To all intents and purposes, it still should be.
Sophie Marchant