It was my last day in India and I was thinking of home. Over the course of a week I had survived street food in Delhi, shopped my way through Jaipur, ridden an elephant up a mountain and stalked whole tribes of camels and holy cows. But just as I thought I had India taped, there was the 'white city' of Udaipur in the heart of Rajasthan, with its ancient palaces, 6th century temple and the unforgettable splendour of Oberoi Udaivilas, built on a forest where panthers and tigers once roamed.
I reached Udaivilas in the style of the owl and the pussycat – in a beautiful pea-green boat – after crossing the still waters of Lake Pichola.
It took 20 years to complete this thoroughly modern monument to opulence, from the first tentative discussions between the Oberoi and the remnants of the Indian Mewar dynasty – whose defining emblem of the rising sun is reproduced all over the property. But it was worth every minute of it.
At 30 acres in total, everything at the Udaivilas resort is on a grand scale. From the spa – which occupies two entire floors and offers more than 30 different holistic treatments such as ayurveda and aromatherapy – to the Candle Room, a miniature glass palace or 'sheesh mahal' constructed of 175,000 separate mirror pieces, Udailvilas is simply breathtaking.
For Mr Oberoi's teams of craftsmen and women, who spent months studying hundreds of old manuscripts in order to replicate the interior design favoured by the Mewars themselves, the painstaking authenticity has paid off.
From the numerous gold-leafed, silvered chandeliers, murals and frescoes inside the building to the half-hidden courtyards, walkways, sculptures and gently rippling fountains that lead guests to the exquisitely-maintained gardens, the hotel is a palace in grand classic style built to exacting 21st century standards.
The main event
I was to sleep in the Great Moghul Suite, my butler, Vanessa, solemnly informed me, ushering me into a cool living area away from the heat of the late afternoon. As soon as I crossed the threshold, I knew that all my previous hotels – grand as they were – had been an enticing warm-up before the main event.
The large white marble sitting room, softened by vast handmade rugs, is adorned with exquisite Indian art and murals. It has both a dining table and chaise longue, the latter enticingly festooned with gold, silk cushions.
Next door, the enormous bed, framed in darkest mahogany and flanked by a pair of giant lamps, is raised just far enough off the floor to give it the flavour of a full-blown four-poster, and its softness promises the most relaxing of nights.
Jaw-dropping views
It was still light enough to see a beautiful view of Lake Pichola and nearby, the 16th century City Palace as Vanessa drew open the heavy, muslin curtains. To my astonishment, this also revealed my own private, heated pool, together with fully-canopied, poolside dining area. I was temporarily speechless.
Next, it was time to dress for dinner and meet the charming manager for a three-course dinner on the terrace. We swapped our experiences of Asia against a soothing background of sitar music and sweet-toned Indian bells, while I tucked into lemongrass soup and spring lamb cooked in yoghurt.
Before dinner, I took a dip in the pool overlooking acres of lush gardens and the lake beyond with only the cicadas and a complimentary bottle of vintage champagne for company. The return ticket to Heathrow didn't seem so appealing.
Virginia Matthews