Where you choose to enjoy delectable Moroccan and continental cuisine is your choice, and Olinto’s lovely team make that delightfully clear. Nothing feels like an ‘ask’ here, more a request that is seamlessly fulfilled. The main dining area is an expansive domed hand-forged pergola, created by a local ironmonger, enjoying dappled light by day beneath the cover of wisteria and jasmine, proceeded by candlelit lanterns and starshine after sunset. There is another terrace suitable for a private al fresco celebration, along with several seating areas for all-day relaxation.
However, for us, the lure of the incandescent lake-sized organically-shaped main pool, surrounded by mature silvern olive trees and white Atlas roses looking onto the iron rich, dusky-pink Ouirgane Valley, was irresistible. A table was swiftly set up beneath the canopy of an enormous olive tree on the grass beside the pool and beds of aromatic lavender and rosemary. We feasted on succulent monkfish kebabs, seasoned black rice and fresh salads sourced from their kitchen garden, with homemade feta and olives. The moreish black and green olive tapenades were accompanied by warm freshly prepared flatbreads, both crispy and fluffy, together with their own extra virgin olive oil. The service here is charming and
attentive, creating an all-round experience that is hard to beat anywhere we’ve stayed in Morocco. Local chardonnays and cabernets are really well chosen and rather more affordable than imported wines.
There is also a beautifully designed indoor dining room, as well as a spectacular art-deco inspired bar, providing a dazzling array of local craftmanship and antiquities on an epic scale. Sipping a martini or an old fashioned in a sumptuous leather lounge chair taking in the hand carved vaulted ceiling, the oval stained-glass windows, the Berber rugs, the redwood bar, and more, is an imperative with an aperitif. In winter when the mountains are capped with snow the allure of the roaring fire in the evenings will be well appreciated. We sipped our sunset cocktails on the rooftop bar soaking up the splendour of the ever-present Atlas Mountains watching them fade to a hazy grey blue under twilight.
Excursions – getting out and about
You can tailor your wish list according to your desires, although the expert team have curated a comprehensive menu of activities: picnics, hikes, bike rides, trips to Berber villages higher up in the mountains, as well as cookery lessons in-house to nail the perfect chicken and lemon tagine and so on.
My dream was to horse ride. The concierge organised an experienced horseman, a qualified vet named Dr Houssam Karra, who arrived with two magnificent black Arabian-Berber stallions. Statuesque and standing at 17 hands I felt both excited and slightly nervous but, once I mounted, I felt completely at ease.
These horses have a serene temperament, spirited and docile, with endless stamina and their sure footedness in such diverse terrain made the ride quite magical. I was told to ride like a cowboy and my mind jumped to Yellowstone. I soon got the hang of it. We rode for 2 hours, taking in the extraordinary and varied scenery: mountains, local villages, pine woods, dried-up rivers thirsty for winter rain, while Houssam described the uniqueness of the terrain, the culture of this valley, as well as the tragedy of the earthquake that hit the area hard in 2023.
Without fear and with total confidence in my dependable beauty, we galloped along the open spaces and walked and talked on the ridges of mountains. When we returned to Olinto, I sat down to remove my leather half chaps and, as I raised my head, my horse walked over and nuzzled my neck. My birthday was in orbit, beyond my dreams.
The Spa and Boutique
The Hammams looked sensational, and the list of treatments is tempting, but with only time for one choice, my daughter and I enjoyed meticulous pedicures, sipping fresh mint tea, and discussing the treats for the rest of the day. There is also a well-equipped air-conditioned gym.
We had the afternoon and evening left to soak up the Olinto allure, so we chose to enjoy another long lunch by the pool. Besides, we needed time in the boutique. In a nutshell, shop no further unless you are looking for large pieces or rugs. Not only is Olinto’s boutique more affordable than most other in-resort boutiques, it also showcases Berberware at its finest.
The body and face products, including pure Argan oil, Neroli sugar scrubs, hand and body creams and more, are supplied by Botanika Marrakech, as are the room diffusers. The dreamy, scented candles in handcrafted woven raffia and glazed ceramic casings are from Côté Bougie Marrakech. The clothes, shoes and bags are all beautifully crafted using the finest fabrics and soft kid leather. I bought a long silk and satin olive-green kaftan with hand Maâlem embroidery around the neckline and cuffs. This birthday dress cost just £100. With candles, diffusers, oils and gifts, we left the boutique feeling richer for less.
Dinner by candlelight
That night we drank Laurent Perrier rosé around the sunken fire pit before moving on to the inviting candlelit pergola, where the waft of spices from the kitchen laced the cooling evening air. We dined under the stars savouring delicious tagines, both lamb and chicken, culminating with a sparkling personalised birthday cake, made with layers of hazelnut praline and chocolate, brought to the table by the now familiar, always smiling staff. We all commented on the great service here, several times.
Each morning our breakfasts were served on our Pavilion terrace facing the pool and soaring trees; a spread of homespun breads and pastries, with a variety of conserves, fruit butter and marmalades, along with shakshuka, delicious fresh orange juice, yogurts, and coffee.
We left wishing for more, but knowing the spell of Olinto will linger until we are fortunate enough to return. Which can’t be soon enough.