I had heard so much about this precarious landing that I was almost disappointed when the wings of our much larger than anticipated plane did not clip at least one cluster of pines before landing. It was smoother than most touchdowns and, although the mountains appear alarmingly close, the 'air of calm' was already taking effect. Having just witnessed heaven before landing: folds of crisp white Himalayas, including Mount Everest and Cho Oyu, Earth was a potential disappointment; though not, as we discovered, if you land in Bhutan...

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Before our drive to Gangtey we were blessed by a high monk on the terrace of Amankora Paro's forecourt beneath a pristine powder blue sky. The mountains were twinkling with early morning freshness and Jomilaro looked particularly profound. Choki and Sonam had packed our car for our next adventure into the mystical unknown, complete with picnic, water, fresh hand towels... and the disposition of saints...

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This is a drive of a few more miles than one may think they may wish to tackle, but in fact, it is a few extra miles to an 'immeasurable' destination. By that I mean getting there feels like nothing compared with the reward of the experience once you've arrived. The drive, again, is speckled with surprises from the spiritual to the wonders of the elements, while time simply loses all relevance. Besides, Choki's flowing knowledge spills out over every valley, vale, pass, chorten, village, and monastery...

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It had not taken long for the mountains to entrench their endless powers of rejuvenation beyond our bones, but we were not prepared for our 'Punakha- penetration': the sinker to our hook-and-line. Descending into Punakha after a journey of, primarily, pine-and-incline, is a sublime contrast. The village and surrounding countryside is spattered with plants that favour a semi-tropical climate and banana trees and oranges thrive here in rich abundance...

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By the time we dropped our cases in Thimphu, for two glorious days and nights, we were far more familiar with Bhutan and its unique formula for the authentic 'good life'. We realised that the richness this brings goes way beyond the material and we felt sure that our spiritual-come-pampering cup had overflowed. We were wrong, there was more to sup, and the Taj Tashi provided a glittering venue along with a menu of extras that exceeded all our expectations...

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Uma Paro's hilltop location in the beautiful Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan has inspired its organic ethos, design and ambiance. Explore the breathtaking landscape with guided treks, or relax in the COMO Shambhala Retreat...

If you really believe that you should skip Thimphu because it may not be as 'charming' as the more isolated towns and villages of Bhutan, then think again. Would you avoid London, Paris, Rome... Prague? Capital cities are crucial to the understanding of a country and though Thimphu may not always have been the capital, it certainly is now. Besides, if you really do want to meet, face-to-future, with an eminent Rinpoche, or an intuitive astrologer, then it is here, in Thimphu, that you are most likely to do so...

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