Bloomberg News - March 2007

Luscious Spuds, Velvety Old-School Pleasures Keep 21 Special 

By Alan Richman

March 28 (Bloomberg) -- Restaurants rarely survive the loss of those who have nurtured them, which is why I expected little to be left of the 21 Club. 

The founders, a couple of cousins with speakeasy aspirations, have passed away. They were followed by namesakes just as beloved. They're gone, too. 

Yet, gratifyingly, 21 Club carries on, not just symbolically but convincingly. 

For nearly 80 years, this was the most New York of New York restaurants, at least for the well-fed, the well-bred and even the well-read -- people with John Cheever novels in their libraries. 

Located at 21 W. 52nd St. in three connected townhouses, adorned with tiny jockeys outside and hanging toys inside, the restaurant has always been about money and power. 

It remains so. On a recent Friday night, Ross Perot and Leslie Moonves (CEO of CBS) were in residence. The next night, former New York Governor George Pataki sat across from me. 

It has also been about solicitude. It remains that way. 

While I understand why patrons might miss the old guard -- for that matter, the entire staff misses the Kriendlers and the Berns -- the newer generation (not so young anymore) understands precisely what 21 represents. 

Ties carefully knotted. Greetings warmly expressed. Traditions meticulously maintained. Even the customers behave impeccably. Perhaps credit belongs to the rule mandating coats and ties at dinner, basically church attire these days.