December “Dealmaker”

Accessed through a massive 5,000-pound door in the prep kitchen — which can be unlocked only by inserting an 18-inch meat skewer into a clandestine crack in the cement wall — the wine cellar was built as a Prohibition-era speakeasy. With booze now running as freely as tap water, the 22-seat room has itself become the attraction, especially among celebratory dealmakers looking for a special venue; management says it hosts nearly 200 closing dinners a year.

A few wines from the original Prohibition stash remain (including a supply of 1929 Maury Les Vignerons de Maury and 1921 Château D’Yquem), or regulars can warehouse their own to mingle with leftovers from Ivan Boesky, Aristotle Onassis and Richard Nixon. Still, dinners in the wine cellar are as much about the classic American cuisine as the vintage bottles. Witness the following menu from a December 2006 feast held to celebrate a hedge fund’s acquisition of a fast-food restaurant group. Coincidentally, the table was set for 21.

(1) Steak Tartare (with Clos Ste. Hune, Trimbach 1997)
Although he famously advised that “lunch is for wimps,” Gordon Gekko could not resist lauding 21’s signature steak in Wall Street — and neither should you. Prepared tableside by a tuxedoed captain, this appetizer-size portion is made to each guest’s specifications. But Riesling with raw red meat? Only if it’s Trimbach’s Clos Ste. Hune, one of the finest whites in the world.

(2) Crispy Panko-Crusted Shrimp Salad
Served immediately following the steak tartare, chef John Greeley’s lightly fried tempura-style shrimp atop a bed of endive and green apples is a welcome newcomer to this traditional lineup.

(3) Wild-Mushroom Risotto (with Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive, 1996)
“We consider our menu comfort food of the highest order,” says 21 general manager Bryan McGuire. This extra-creamy risotto loaded with handpicked truffles — a wintertime favorite — is no exception, especially when it’s paired with the first of two exceptional burgundies to grace the table.

(4) Venison Chop and Loin (with ÈchÉzeaux Domaine de la RomÉe Conti, 1996)
“For some of these guys, looking at our wine list is like being a kid in a candy store. During one dinner, the wine bill was more than $16,000,” McGuire recalls. He couldn’t say whether this $600-per-bottle burgundy was among the wallet-busting selections, but it does make a perfect complement to a hearty main course served with whipped potatoes and buttery Brussels sprouts.

(5) Warm Chocolate Soufflé (with ChÂteau d’Yquem, 1986)
There are certainly trendier desserts to be had. Yet when this classic pastry, already rich and delicious, is accompanied by the most sought-after of all Sauternes, there’s no need to gild the lily. Leave that excess to the collection of 32 jockey statues on the balcony outside.