| The Dishy Dorchester
Something big has hit the Dorchester. It's not a meteor, but it is galactic; a star propelled at an impressive pace, with skill, imagination, creativity and delectability. If this is the first time you've heard the name, it certainly won't be the last: a true Scouser named Aiden Byrne.
The Dorchester has reached an all time high, but now it is set to go even higher. The atmosphere is positively electric and sitting at the bar in the newly refurbished Dorchester Bar, you know you are in the right bar. Not just because of the extravagant use of rich materials, lacquered walls, red glass-stalagmites, deeply comfortable velvet chairs and glass tables, or even the sultry mix of swing and blues music, but because of the way Eric & Co' have mastered the art of cocktail-making. This is an art, aspired to by many a young man since Tom Cruise won hearts in Jamaica, and when performed with real skill it excites even the abstemious. I asked Eric for his favourite and got three. Someone has to do this job.
As he was shaking the 'South Island' (42 Below Kiwi-flavoured vodka, fresh kiwi fruit, slices of cucumber, lime, fresh ginger and topped with champagne), I asked if it were possible to have one of these in your room, while gazing out over London's most famous park, Hyde Park. It is, but during bar hours only. I also noticed that, before we moved on, to our outrageous meal in the Dorchester Grill Room, three other people wanted 'my' cocktail. It is such an event coming here because they've made cocktail hour how it ought to be. A great way to kick-off a special evening.
The Grill Room
Back to Aiden. We went to the Grill Room expecting fine British fare, traditional in style with wholesome hearty ingredients. The Grill Room has always been famous for roast beef and lashings of Yorkshire pudding, as well as Scottish salmon or Dover Sole. What we actually discovered simply blew us away. This is the next Petrus, Ramsay, Fat Duck, or, more accurately, Tom Aitkins (his mentor). And so another star is born (well at least 30 years ago), and The Dorchester has nabbed him. There is no faux Francais in the wording of the menu. It starts with 'White Onion Soup' but in italics underneath, 'with veal shin ravioli'. Alarm bells start ringing but they are good ones. Dublin Bay Prawns catch my eye with broccoli puree, ricotta dumplings and caviar. Under 'Main Courses', the usual: line-caught Sea Bass, Turbot, Lobster Thermidor, John Dory, Venison, Beef in Guinness, but again in italics, the unexpected accompaniment of unique and exciting partners.
This really was a venture into uncharted culinary creations and it was a total treat. We squealed with delight, not only because of the exceptional tastes, textures and flavours, but because it was another dimension. The sommelier, Jason McAuliffe, is also not exactly what you would expect. Absolutely no pretensions, in fact, refreshingly blunt with an outstanding palate born out of an impressive past. Why have we not met Jason before? Then the affable, charming restaurant manager, Daniel Pawelek, who certainly understands how to satisfy his clientele. The restaurant was packed and a couple of tricky customers could have flustered many a manager, but not Daniel. The evening ended with that sort of quietude expected after the applauding of a great performance, but get there as soon as you can (and will all terrestrial and satellite television stations please stay away). The lobster was the sweetest, most succulent tail I have savoured. The scallops were perfect, really perfect, with a decadent amount of fresh truffle, sitting pretty in a glistening mound of white chocolate risotto. Already the food outshines the room's somewhat garish interior.
This fabulous cuisine was complemented by a properly decanted, deliciously complex, Puligny Montrachet 2002 from Etienne Sauzet (excellent value in a restaurant of this quality at £85).
So, two very good reasons for coming out of your room or suite. We stayed in a Park Suite that, as the name implies, looks straight out over Hyde Park. It was bathed in brilliant sunshine and felt like a luxurious, deeply comfortable and much coveted London pied-à-terre. The suite was fabulous and, yes, wonderfully excessive with two mini bars, one in the bedroom and one in the sitting room both tucked neatly inside antique dressers, stocked with Krug and rows of nibbles; even the house red was a decent, mature '96 Medoc. It was uplifting, luxurious and homely. Rich paneling and country house interiors made this feel like an elegant English home with the bathroom so incredible having the deepest Jacuzzi marble tub in London. The Floris bathroom accessories were generous enough for you to wrap up as presents for your best friend.
The Dorchester is in prime position on Park Lane and is currently shining like Sirius; the brightest visible star in the night sky.
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