| Grande Roche - classic Cape charm
I think it's hard not to be 'blown away' when you arrive at this palm-and-vine oasis.
Situated in the largest town of the Cape Winelands, Paarl, it smoulders with the very essence of this regal region. Historically Paarl is of much consequence, being the third oldest European Settlement in South Africa, with roots dating back to the San and the Khoikhoi. The seemingly endless, jacaranda lined, main street off which Grande Roche sits pretty, is over 11 kilometres long, with many fine examples of Cape Dutch architecture as well as some prestigious museums and churches. However, the pearl of Paarl is unquestionably this one.
This wasn't my first visit to the hotel, and though I remember really enjoying my previous stays, I was more impressed this time: the views are the same, the house is as stunning, but the suite-upgrading and 21st century adaptations have put Grand Roche into the sexy zone. Thus it is not just incredibly beautiful now, it swoons with suite-pizzazz. However, not all the suites have been modernised, I just happen to prefer the ones that have, even if only partially, to the more dated classic ones. For me staying somewhere like this is as much about the vision beyond and nearby as it is about the room, and in order to capture the whole I think you need a suite with a private terrace alongside the vines.
Our di-vine suite
At first we were shown a classic duplex suite, in a building that is classified as a 'monument', which was originally the slave quarters. The space on two levels, with downstairs sitting room complete with three-piece, television, mini bar, footstool and chintz fabric would feel like home away from home for some guests, however our 'calling' was to the vines and we swiftly opted for a vine-side suite.
Standing on our terrace, with the Paarl Mountain back-dropping this heavenly scene, felt exhilarating. Ours was not one of the recently completed, avant-garde 'Africanesque' suites facing the mountain; we were higher up, with the mountain to our left and looked across the vineyard to the quintessentially quaint, honey-hued, chapel and trademark stone-white slave bell, and were close enough to almost kiss the vines.
Our path to the main house was flanked with wonderfully fragrant old-fashioned pink roses with exotic protea, while the walls were hidden beneath a dense bedding of ivy, housing several contented guinea fowl.
As my sister Anna is an interior designer she is particularly eagle-eyed when it comes to finishes and furnishings but even she was happy; as much because of the location as anything else. We had a separate sitting room off the terrace, soothingly contemporary classic, in a palette of taupe and pale maroon, a large verdite-green and cream marble clad bathroom with all the mod cons and plenty of perfumed fare. Our deluxe bedroom, similarly subtle in hue, had an enormous, sumptuously dressed, bed and benefited from a vintage wooden sash window overlooking the sun kissed verdant vines. Bibi had a travel cot, which doubled up as a playpen on the terrace so that she, too, could gaze at the wondrous setting.
Vast oak trees shade the manicured lawns, with squirrels scampering up and down their broad trunks while tall palms feature with exotic prominence throughout the property. There are also sweeping conifers and aged olive trees, jacaranda, jasmine, bougainvillea, convolvulus and more besides. All of this, together with mountain magic, is what makes this place an oasis. The fragrant wafts from nature are sensually complemented by nurture... the food is excellent here.
Grande Roche exudes romance and I can totally understand why couples choose to marry or have a blessing in a setting as idyllic as this. It is large enough to accommodate a substantial party, yet its skilful lay out, incorporating discretion and privacy seamlessly with nature, feels blissfully intimate too. There are also two swimming pools, thoughtfully distanced: one for families near to the main house, and one for serious sunbathers seeking a restful poolside retreat together with bar and nearby spa/gym.
Bosman's Restaurant
I think this has to be one of the most spectacular 'dining-rooms' in any hotel in Africa. It really is scintillating. What's more the cuisine is excellent too, with a chef that creates taste sensations using the region's finest ingredients with genuine passion. You can also dine on the terrace; by day a lush vine, rose, water, palm and mountain feast for the eyes; by night Paarl glows with a twinkly incandescence beneath the mountain, while the trade mark front of house palms are majestically up lit. However, the dining room is hard to beat.
I enjoyed local quail stuffed with truffles on a light oxtail consommé, simple and delicious, while the Karoo lamb was as flavoursome and succulent as I could ever remember. The wine list is long and profound and the sommelier did us proud. We didn't have cake but we did enjoy the icing: Bibi was rocked gently to sleep in the hands of the caring front manager.
La Grande Roche has history, it has class, it has finesse and right now it feels like a must-stay for anyone who wishes to soak up the finest ingredients that make this region what it is: enduringly alluring.
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