| Our money's on Maratea
It's not often we feel we have found REAL value for money when we go away: the higher the price tag, the higher the expectations. At La Locanda delle Donne Monache in Maratea you could almost feel guilty when you settle the bill.
Where is Italy's coastal pearl?
We took a taxi to Maratea from Naples, though I have since been told that the train from Naples is wonderfully scenic and takes less time. It's 200 kilometres going south past the Amalfi Coast and into the coastal splendour of the Tyrrhenian Sea tucked within the Gulf of Policastro in the ancient region of Basilicata. Dating back to the ancient Greeks this coastline of around 30 km is quite breathtaking.
Powder soft volcanic beaches, set beside aquamarine sea, weave their way between sheer cliffs that house deep caves. Rolling green mountains cloaked in age-old vegetation of aromatic wild thyme, rosemary and broom, amidst clusters of pine, olive and oak trees, which looked tropically lush when we visited in May of this year. The entire coastline, from Naples to the south, is dotted with remarkable beauty, though somehow when you slip into this little pocket it appears wilder, more remote, less invaded, more picturesque, and positively liberating.
The hotel runs an excellent shuttle service to both inland and coastal destinations so a car is not entirely necessary here. As the roads wind around the mountains, with several stomach-churning hairpin bends, handing over the wheel to those who know the roads can aid relaxation.
The marvels of Maratea
The partly ancient town of Maratea is built into the side of the mountain with a white-robed marble statue of the Risen Christ, not much smaller than Rio's 'Christ The Redeeme'r, towering its sanctity from atop. There are forty-four churches in the town, though the most auspicious and beautiful one of all hugs the sweeping poolside boundary of La Locanda. When we arrived at our stylish converted convent, built quite precipitously into the rock face, we were instantly struck by its quaint, almost yesteryear, charm. The hotel itself is sympathetically modernised but somehow the sense of how Italy was in the 1950's is instantaneous.
The interior design and decoration is neither stately nor swish, it is simple-luxe with fine pieces of bold furniture in a palette totally befitting its ancestral beginnings. There is a familiar flavour of the owner's (Casa Angelina near Positano) idiosyncratic style. The eclectic sweep of artefacts and luxuries from Morocco (a place of passion with the art-minded owner) on local polished stone floors and hand-made tiles blends extremely well. An impressive portfolio of artwork and sculptures adorn antique chests, tables and the many old walls that exude a nostalgic, faintly cellar-ish crisp air. The thickness of the walls is also a great respite in the hotter months. La Locanda has an exotic touch, though it houses a relaxing quietude, perhaps due its previous inhabitants, but also thanks to its exceptional location.
A great escape en-famille
Most rooms have a quintessential 'room-with-a-view' window; sweeping aspects from open flung shutters onto the mainly peach-toned old town, from which a mellifluous blend of church bell and bird song permeates the sun-soaked air, while the lush mountain, to which the hotel is ethereally wedded, is constantly admired. We stayed in two suites, with separate doors, that were cordoned off exclusively by a set of double external doors. Continuing on from our exclusive setting were old stone steps that lead to a wine cellar with an enormous old black metal key this side of the barred door's lock; demonstrating that even trust has not diminished in this place of charm.
The rooms are not overtly fancy, that would set an almost offensive tone given La Locanda's humble origins. However they are extremely comfortable with an understated organic-style of luxury. A couple of the suites we 'spied' for next time were sensational: La Vicaria has a raised Jacuzzi bath, surrounded by candles and pin spots, embedded within atmospheric rock face. Together with an enormous canopied antique four-poster set to impossibly sweet views: definitely honeymoon. The Badessa has a large terrace with staggering views across the town while ours, the Novizie, is duplex and perfect for families.
Mealtime at the hotel's restaurant, 11 Sacello, is certainly remarkable. There are several dining areas from which to enjoy their fine fare: the chilled more refectory-style dining room that benefits from a glorious wall of exposed boulders; the sun-filled or moonlit conservatory; and (our choice) the teak decked terrace beneath vast white Moroccan parasols, close to the amazingly voluptuous pool and the exquisite church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The heady waft of rosemary, roses and jasmine fills the sea-town air while the distant and nearby belfries ring out from the town's many churches, punctuating the atmosphere with evocative reminders of its ecclesiastical community. This is a remarkable wedding venue for those of a truly romantic disposition and they are completely set-up for such an occasion. The food is fast becoming excellent: local, fresh, exciting, imaginative and full of truffle! Fish is a speciality selected daily from the nearby port, which is speckled with brightly coloured fishing boats that bob incongruously among a scant display of yacht swank.
Sun, sand and an aquamarine sea
There are several beaches nearby with restaurants offering a simple fresh menu with that all-time favourite tricolore platter of mozzarella, tomato and basil, a fail-safe winner. The sea is piercingly aqua and sapphire; I actually had to remove my sunglasses several times to focus on its shimmering intensity. The crystalline water evokes an instant desire to 'get in there'; swimming really does happen off these beaches. While the beach bars are fairly basic, the bathing areas are immaculately clean, with sunbeds under parasols costing one twentieth of one in St Tropez. The hotel will advise which beaches are suitable for the time of year and shuttle you back and forth as desired. We found the most perfect swim of all: hand crafted steps leading down into a deep protected inlet, sheltered by sea-facing rocks, surrounded by soft emerald hillocks, with lakes of transparent pale jade water that moved with the gentlest of currents and... only a handful of locals! Discuss this beach with our concierge.
La Locanda delle Donne Monache is fabulously positioned for simply walking to great places, such as the Statue of the Christ on the Mount Sant Biagio (two hours through shaded woodland) or down steps into the narrow cobbled streets and archways of the old town. It is also excellently located for excursions slightly further afield, including spectacular national parks such as The National Park of Pollino and for the more adventurous, the incredible Caves of Matera. There is a great golf course nearby as well as the enchanting village of San Nicola Arcella and Praie a Mare.
You may find though that you simply want to chill at this restful little oasis snuggled betwixt an enticing sea and a heavenly mountain. Whichever way you turn you will hit pockets of paradise... at a price that's close to godliness.
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