| Our money is on Maratea... at La Locanda delle Donne Monache
We've just discovered another Italian gem, open for just over a month, and if you're looking for a last minute summer break, here's one that you can't afford to ignore; petit-luxe with a petit-pricetag (for the moment, at least) and it really is 'splendido'.
What is it that makes us/you return to Italy again and again and again? We can't get enough of the Bay of Solerno, though now we have found another sacred spot farther down the coast from which to drop anchor: the historical Tyrrhenian sea-town of Maratea. Why? Because not only does it define the word picturesque, it hosts our latest partner; the converted 18th century nunnery, La Locanda delle Donne Monache, now a bijoux hideaway hotel with some of the sweetest views in Italy.
An undiscovered gem...
The partly ancient town of Maratea (one and a half hours south of Naples by train) is built into the side of the mountain with a white-robed statue of the Risen Christ, not much smaller than Rio's Christ The Redeemer, towering its sanctity from atop. There are forty four churches in the town, though the most auspicious and beautiful one of all hugs the sweeping poolside boundary of La Locanda. It is so prepossessing in the town and at the hotel that it's almost a shame to let 'it' out of the bag.
Our latest find...
The hotel has not overshadowed its ancestral ingredients, however it is remarkably stylish, with a sweep of Moroccan luxury on local stone and hand-made tiles, together with some striking art and the familiar (Casa Angelina) Murano glass sculptures by Sergio Bustamente, carefully displayed on antique chests and tables. La Locanda has an exotic touch, though it houses a relaxing quietude, perhaps due its previous inhabitants, but also because of its exceptional location: nestled into cooling rock-face beneath the greenest of mountains with the vista of Maratea's terracotta rooftops fading fabulously beneath a generous sun.
Delightful cuisine...
Dining at the hotel in the restaurant, Il Sacello, is for some in the chilled dining room that benefits from a glorious wall of exposed 'boulderesque' rock; for others it is in the light of the sun-filled conservatory, and for me it is on the wooden decked terrace beneath vast white Moroccan parasols. The heady waft of rosemary, roses and jasmine fills the sea-town air, for whom the bell evocatively tolls. It is utterly delightful. The food is fast becoming excellent; local, fresh, exciting, imaginative and the local Campagna and Basilitacan wines are delicious.
Stylish suites...
The rooms and suites are all (we saw most) special and individually appealing. We stayed in Suites 19 and 20 because they worked perfectly with our boys but I definitely left my name on the canopied bed of the suite 'La Vicaria'! Not only do the windows open up onto a view that you would stay in for, all day, but the bath is sunken into the exposed rock of the now sacred mountain, making it richly organic and divinely indulgent. The charm here is ubiquitous, probably has been for some time, or perhaps that's the sense of 'soul' you connect with...
Explore Basilicata or head for the beach...
There are several beaches nearby with restaurants serving simple fresh foods and that all time favourite tricolore platter of mozzarella, tomato and basil. The sea is piercingly aqua and sapphire; I actually had to remove my sunglasses several times to believe the colour. The crystalline water invokes an instant desire to 'get in there'; swimming really does happen off these beaches.
When we return, in July, we are keen to take advantage of the nearby excursions, of which there are many, ranging from the cultural to the remarkable wilds of this breathtaking landscape. It's an exciting destination, packed full of history, and one that may take a little longer than reaching Amalfi, but is well worth the journey. The train from Naples to Maratea is only 1.5 hrs and provides wonderful views of the dramatic coast; driving the 200kms takes a bit longer.
What's more, and this really is incredible, La Locanda is outstandingly good value, at least until others discover its charms.
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