| Naturally Stunning Lilianfels
The road through Katoomba to Echo Point is less than inspiring, and so it was with some relief that we finally arrived at Lilianfels, having travelled from the Outback and Ayers Rock that same day. Driving up to the hotel the scent of eucalyptus was definitely in the air, but the gardens feel English with pines, cedars, azaleas, rhododendrons and a beautiful formal rose garden - here in the mountains there are defined seasons unlike elsewhere in New South Wales. We felt immediately at home as our car was whisked away, we were registered swiftly and walking along corridors where drawings of 'Monarch of the Glen' stags hung adjacent to Australian parrots we were shown to our rooms by David, who gave us a charming, Aussie welcome.
The original house was built in 1889 by Sir Frederick Darley, originally from Ireland. He hoped to cure his daughter, Lilian, of tuberculosis in the clean mountain air. Fels is German for "rocky ground". A new country house was completed in 1992, the lines of the new building echoing those of the original house. When Orient-Express took over, a major refurbishment was undertaken to create the relaxing country house of today.
In the bedrooms colours are subtle. There are canopied iron and brass bedsteads, shaped pelmets and pretty fabrics. Bathrooms are large and marble with lemon grass soap. The effect is one of stylish comfortable luxury with a romantic twist. We left one of our teenage daughters, temporarily ill, cosily tucked up under her crisp, quite possibly 250 thread count cotton, duvet and the other investigating the mini bar and DVD's whilst we set off to explore...
"An immense gulf is unexpectedly seen through the trees. This kind of view was to me quite novel and extremely magnificent." Charles Darwin - 'Voyage of the Beagle'
And it is this view which provides the real reason for spending time at Lilianfels - it is truly spectacular, a deep broad valley of tropical rain forest so dense that new species have only recently been discovered. Early settlers followed the streams along the valley floors but were then halted by impassable vertical cliffs. The region could only be explored when expeditions followed the mountain ridges. Lilianfels sits on a cliff with fine views of the Jamison Valley and a satisfying distance from the tourists at Echo Point, vying for their position to photograph the Three Sisters rock formation. Rivers have carved ravines into the sandstone and the whole blue, hazy, exotic landscape provided an interesting contrast to the (also sandstone) orange desert surrounding Ayers Rock, and one which, for me, was more awe-inspiring.
As we savoured the mountain air and scenery by the infinity pool the next day, ominous black clouds and loud thunder rolls threatened to curtail our sunbathing, so we decided to try out the gym. This has been converted from the original cottage (once visited by Nicole Kidman and Tom Cruise) and although well equipped to give a good work out, the charming refurbishment has been carried out sympathetically; original room partitions could easily be reinstated and a floating floor covers the old wooden parquet. As we recovered in the lounge after our exertions, banks of mist rolled towards the hotel. The clouds were now so low that the valley could no longer be seen at all - very atmospheric and Conan Doyle.
Sir Frederick's house is now Darley's, an award winning restaurant. It is easy to imagine oneself back in 1889, as careful restoration has kept the building in period with its leaded windows, polished wood and 'Acanthe' design carpet specially imported from England. The veranda has been enclosed with glass to allow effective heating in winter and protection from mountain flies. Be sure to ask for a table here in order to view the darkening valley whilst enjoying high quality modern Australian cuisine - the veal with polenta, walnuts, morels and asparagus was recommended and was excellent.
Just before we travelled back to Sydney we took our postponed complimentary afternoon tea, which consisted of a triple tier cake stand of sandwiches, scones and cakes in the lounge. Our now recovered and ravenous daughter was particularly appreciative. Earlier that morning the strap of my overloaded leather bag had broken. As we sat having our tea, a pair of pliers was presented on a tray with a white linen cloth by the friendly waitress, who definitely had a twinkle in her eye and seemed genuinely pleased when the strap was mended. This was typical of Lilianfels. The hotel is unstuffy, in a stunning natural setting and reminiscent of Gleneagles. We left feeling refreshed, well and relaxed, ready for New Year in Sydney.
Sue Fotheringham
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